To Lugoj and Caransebes


Blue sky, no wind, quiet road out of Timisoara.

We stopped briefly in the small town of Bacova to admire the church. A parishioner with few teeth spoke to us in German and explained that it was a Swabian church that had been renovated with funds from Hungary (except don’t quote me on that as I only got the merest gist). It was nicely decorated inside. A short distance further along was the slightly larger town of Buzias where an Orthodox church was holding Sunday service. This was a small church, but richly decorated inside and with two water taps outside, one  dispensing normal water and the other holy water.

Our road  was  undergoing repairs in some sections. It is alarming to see a drop of about 30cm from the edge of the bitumen to the unpaved shoulder.

After a lunch stop in Lugoj, a good sized town with similar characteristics to others we have seen (ie decaying historic buildings, Ceaucescu era fringes), we found a more rural road for awhile, along the valley of the Timis river. This road carried little traffic but varied in its quality. Our landscape was different too with hills nearby and high mountains in the distance, a welcome change after many days of cycling through flat country.

One village we passed through, Tapia, seemed to have been denied a sealed road, as the seal ended at the entrance and a bad bumpy metal road began and continued for some kilometres. The houses here were built from bricks that have what looks like a ceramic surface in different colours, arranged in geometric patterns. Other villages along the way had these too. In Tapia there were many people in the street, more than we have seen anywhere else. In most villages there are people sitting alone, or in twos and threes, watching the passing traffic.

Woven fence near Tincova

Eventually the road deteriorated into a rough unsealed track, but on the advice of a young boy and his family we pressed on. Henri would be proud of us, riding on grass, through puddles into which frogs leapt as we passed and along faint car tracks. Garmin didn’t know this road at all so navigation was done the old-fashioned way.

Exactly which way is Tincova?

Once past the village of Tincova we crossed the river, stopped for a paddle to cool off, then rejoined the brand new EU funded highway. Fast traffic, no lines marked, big drop off the edge… this does not make for enjoyable or safe riding. We are now in the unremarkable town of Caransebes considering our options for escaping more highway riding tomorrow.

Bicycle route:
Timosoara – Caransebes

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