Oh we do like to be beside the sea side


Here we are in Şarkőy on the North coast of the Marmara Sea – a place with millennia of history and legend. Having returned to sea level we feel we’ve crossed the continent.

We’ve enjoyed quite reasonable quality roads and quiet traffic for most of the day riding through sparsely populated farmlands. Tail winds again! 😉

We stopped for tea/cai in Kozyoruk – a tiny, hard-times place. The young cai man thoughtfully brought bottles of cold water without us asking. The teas was strong and served in tulip-shaped, fine glass beakers. He wouldn’t take any money.

Cai in Kozyoruk

We bought food for lunch in Malkara – a biggish struggle-town with a large gypsy (?) village on the outskirts. These satellites are not really shanty towns because the buildings, though modest, seem too substantial, but you get the idea. It was market day – an extensive market with food, clothes, hardware and household goods. Where does all the produce come from and what happens to the vast majority that doesn’t get sold? Rosalie is worrying about oversupply and waste in European markets.

Abundant market produce in Malkara

After lunch we had 10 unpleasant kilometres on a dual carriageway (but safe with wide, debris-clear shoulder/breakdown lane for us) and then 30 kilometres in rolling hills/farmland – too many hills at end of a long day.

Şarkőy is a down-at-heel resort town for Turks. It’s the end-of-season so there’s lots of vacancies and things are cheap. From our balcony we can see the broad Marmara to the East narrowing towards the Dardenelles (and sunset) to the West. We can see the high mountains of Anatolia across the water but have decided to stay on this side for a few more days. Tomorrow we plan to ride down the Gelibolu (Gallipoli) Pensinusla to Eceabat opposite Canakkale. We’ll make a low-profile visit to Anzac Cove. We fear we may have strayed into an area all too familiar with ugly Australian tourism. Since it’s not April we may get away with it.

I think I should take Rosalie for a swim in the wine-dark sea but she’s adamant – no more new countries or languages. So, we’re going to catch a ferry to Gokceada a Turkish Island in the Aegean for a couple of nights. And then it’s back to Eceabat, ferry across the Dardanelles, 160 km to Dandirma and then ferry to Istanbul.

We splurged on a seafood dinner on the pier – very nice (pricey by Eastern European/Turkish standards). We were their only customers. Ramadan must be hard on restaurants especially at the end of the season.

We’re anticipating a good night’s sleep – wire screens on window, seaside, touristic area so probably left alone by Ramadan drummers.

Figs glorious figs.

Figs glorious figs...

Cycle route:
Babaeski – Şarkőy

2 Responses to “Oh we do like to be beside the sea side”

  1. kjm Says:

    yay! so thrilled you are relaxing end of the adventure. And loved the uke jam by the road side. love from all adelaide ukers

  2. ros Says:

    Hey Ian/Rosalie so excited you have reached Turkey -the Gallipoli sight is pretty special)i thought anyway) enjoy the swimming and great turkish foodxx Ros

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