We cycled along the Riviere de Morlaix and then the estuary towards Carantec. The ebb tide had left vast expanses of mud flats exposed and many fishing boats aground at their moorings. Our path then wound amongst market gardens (artichokes, cabbages and onions) to Saint-Pol-de-Leon, a small town with a large church AND an impressive cathedral in close proximity.

We passed an Onion Johnny stall. Since the 19th century onion farmers from this area have sailed small boats loaded with brown onions, a striped shirt and a bicycle to find more profitable and accessible markets in southern England. Improved land transport in the past 60 years has seen that practice fall away but they’re still growing lots of onions.

The countryside near the coast is heavily populated with many small villages and separate farm dwellings. The small houses have slate roofs and cream-painted walls. They look very nice against the lush green fields.

It started raining lightly about an hour before we arrived in Brest – just long enough to get wet but we received a warm welcome from our hosts Marie-Anick, Erick and their daughter Julie, the family of our Couchsurfer, Morgane. Erick and Julie accompanied me to an Orange retailer to get help with my mobile phone card and then we ate a delicious meal prepared by Marie-Anick and passed an evening plus agreeable.

Today’s route

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