A foggy day from Söderköping


Söderköping to Nyköping

After a self-catered breakfast in the Söderköping youth hostel we cycled off in fog – thick, warm fog that hung around for an hour or two. Suffice to say it was pleasant cycling and a totally different experience to our recent sunny days.


We arrived at the ferry near Skenäs with a stinky rubbish truck and considered waiting for the next crossing but that would have meant an hour’s wait and the only cafe was on the other side of the fjord, so we pedalled onboard and stood upwind. The cafe was disappointing but the swim soon after was deliciously cool.


Our way then became quite tough with many short, steep hills to climb but, mercifully, corresponding descents followed.


We had a good lunch at Nävekvarn. The Systrama Brådhes Cafe by the harbour was the best eatery we’ve encountered on the road in Sweden. We shared Swedish meatballs and smoked salmon.

We were obliged to take a fairly major secondary road most of the way to Nyköping. It started with a wide shoulder and sparse traffic but later we had to share the lane with too many 80km/h vehicles. It was a relief to turn onto a cycle track for the last few kilometres.

Nyköping is a compact city with a large, pleasant and car-free centrum. There are quite a few pretty, old buildings that share the precinct with new and remodeled ones.


View from hotel room – we are staying in a huge wellness hotel that appears to have been a Sunlight soap factory or similar in the past

During the 20th century the Swedes seem to have valued modernisation over conservation in many places. Perhaps the climate is so extreme that thermal performance trumps other considerations.

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