Close shaves


Vyborg – Primorsk – Ozerki, Russia

That is referring to the traffic not the barbershop!

Warm weather continues here. We have slept without blankets now for weeks as it does not cool down much during the night. There was some overnight rain last night; the morning sky was overcast and the breeze was cool.

The road to Primorsk was patchy (the bitument that is) and the traffic initially heavy-ish but it diminished a little as we progressed. This area is not especially scenic, featuring forest much of the way, a stretch of railway, occasional glimpses of the sea and few towns of interest.

Primorsk was the only major town on our route today. It could be described as dismal but there were a few bright spots that made a good impression. The first was a bread kiosk that Ian noticed, where we bought a piping hot bread ring with savoury filling and a bread pasty filled with melted stretchy cheese – yum! Why aren’t there more of these everywhere? They were too hot to eat immediately so we consumed them at the outdoor table of a cafe (one of few in the town) while we drank coffee. The cafe was divided into a family friendly decorated in brilliant colours and an adult area in more muted tones.

Nearby was a small market where about half a dozen vendors were selling their produce – dried fish displayed on a car bonnet, tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, lettuce, zucchinis, fennel seeds, spring onions, basil, dill and fresh flowers. There were also memorials marking the 70th anniversary of a WW2 victory in 1944.

Back on the road again we experienced a few close encounters with drivers who did not feel the need to leave us much space. However, overall the traffic was not too bad. At one point we passed close to the sea and followed a short side track to view the beach. The area had been comprehensively trashed by previous visitors which, to put it politely, detracted from our enjoyment.

We are staying overnight in a tiny village, Ozerki, in accommodation that is pretty basic but overpriced, comparable with our benchmark of 2010 – the Cape Jervis Motel ($80 for run down, not clean enough room with no potable water provided). Ozerki doesn’t have a lot to offer apart from a shop called Продукты (Products – accurate if not imaginitive) and the Russian Orthodox Church of St Nikolaya Chudotvortsa. We bought fresh cucumbers and tomatoes from a roadside stall near here and cheese from Продукты and made a salad to go with our instant noodles. We can still cook!

Tomorrow – St Petersburg!



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